Vinous: OTTOBRE 2017
Cari Amici, siamo lieti di inviarVi con la presente una retrospettiva di Antonio Galloni – Vinous sui Barbareschi 2014 e 2015. Giorgio Pelissero’s 2014s are just as good from bottle as they were from barrel. The wines have shut down considerably, though, so they really do need to be cellared for at least a few years to be at their best. If opened young, the 2014s need quite a bit of air. The 2015s are much more charming, seductive and immediate. It will be interesting to see if the 2015s shut down after bottling or not. As always, Giorgio Pelissero crafts forward, fruit-driven Barbarescos long on personality. From 2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017) by Antonio Galloni 2014 Barbaresco Nubiola Sweet red cherry, plum, flowers, mint and pine are all perked up by the bright acids of the vintage. This nervous, energetic Barbaresco needs time to unwind, but it is unquestionably attractive. As always, the Nubiola is the most feminine of Pelissero’s Barbarescos. Hints of sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, orange peel and spice add further shades of aromatic nuance. The Nubiola is a blend of fruit from six parcels. 92 Oct 2017 2014 Barbaresco Tulin The 2014 Barbaresco Tulin is a powerhouse. A rush of dark-fleshed fruit, chocolate, mocha, cedar, smoke and leather hits the palate. Brooding and tannic, the 2014 is going to need at least a few more years in bottle to be at its best. There is no shortage of power or intensity, that much is evident. 93 Oct 2017 2014 Barbaresco Vanotu The 2014 Barbaresco Vanotu is just as compelling from bottle as it was from barrel. Like the Tulin, the Vanotu is decidedly big and tannic in feel. Black cherry, mocha, plum, leather, gravel, licorice and dark spice find support from beams of tannin that give the wine its shape. The Vanotu finishes with serious weight and pure power. The Vanotu is another wine that demands cellaring. 94+ Oct 2017 2015 Barbaresco Nubiola The 2015 Barbaresco Nubiola is terrific. In fact, the 2015 may be the best Nubiola proprietor Giorgio Pelissero has made to date. Polished and nuanced, with softer contours than is the norm, the 2015 possesses striking aromatic intensity, lovely inner sweetness and terrific overall balance. The flavors are remarkably vivid throughout. Hard candy, wild flowers, mint and rose petal are all laced into the persistent, striking finish. There is so much to look forward to. (91-93) Oct 2017 2015 Barbaresco Tulin The 2015 Barbaresco Tulin is exotic in the glass. Powerful and racy, the Tulin captures all of the exuberance of the year. This is a decidedly flamboyant style, and yet the 2015 retains terrific purity and nuance. Even so, the Tulin exudes depth and intensity in all of its dimensions. (92-95) Oct 2017 2015 Barbaresco Vanotu Pelissero’s 2015 Barbaresco Vanotu exudes freshness and energy, not to mention exceptional balance. Blood orange, pomegranate, ripe red cherry and French oak run through this super-expressive Barbaresco. The 2015 is bold and racy, but, like all of these wines, it needs more time in bottle to come into its own. (92-95) Oct 2017