A Look Back at the 2004&2005 Barbarescos by Galloni
Cari Amici, siamo lieti di inviarVi con la presente una retrospettiva di Antonio Galloni – Vinous sui Barbareschi 2004 e 2005, condividendo con Voi quella che è la sfida più grande per un produttore, ovvero riuscire a fare dei vini buoni quando vengono messi sul mercato, ma che risultino addirittura migliori dopo oltre 10 anni di maturazione (un esempio tra tutti è il Barbaresco Vanotu 2004, che ha preso oggi 95 punti mentre nel 2007 lo stesso Galloni su The Wine Advocate lo aveva recensito con un già ottimo 92!) A Look Back at the 2004 & 2005 Barbarescos Giorgio Pelissero Giorgio Pelissero’s 2005s and 2004s have aged nicely. The only wine that was not as expressive as it was when I first tasted it is the 2004 Riserva, but that is a wine that was never commercially released, so I doubt many readers own it. The flagship Vanotu remains one of the classiest Barbarescos readers will find in a style that leans towards the modern, but without being over the top. From A Look Back at the 2004 & 2005 Barbarescos (Jun 2016) by Antonio Galloni 2005 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco Vanotu: Giorgio Pelissero’s 2005 Barbaresco Vanotu is a bit restrained, but it is also impeccably balanced and gorgeous today. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and menthol flesh out in a soft, open-knit Barbaresco to drink now and over the next decade or so. A touch of French oak adds volume and sweetness through to the finish, but the wood is nicely integrated throughout. Score: 94. 2005 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco Tulin (magnum): The 2005 Barbaresco Tulin, which I tasted from magnum, preserves terrific energy, even if the new oak tannins have never fully integrated. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, chalk and mint give the 2005 its distinctive, high-toned aromatics. The flavors are bright and nicely articulated throughout. Tulin can, at times, be a bit austere, especially in cooler years like 2005, and yet the wine has also stood the test of time nicely. This is another strong showing from Pelissero. Score: 92. 2004 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco Tulin: The 2004 Barbaresco Tulin has aged well, but it is also ready to drink, as the first signs of tertiary development have now begun to appear. Attractive scents of dark red cherry, plum, smoke, leather and licorice add to the wine’s appeal. The 2004 was aged in a new 50-hectoliter cask, and some of the new oak tannins remain. Still, this is a very pretty, if somewhat burly Barbaresco. Crushed autumn leaves and truffles are some of the nuances that shape the finish. Score: 90. 2004 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco Vanotu: The 2004 Barbaresco Vanotu is quite a bit fresher and more powerful than the Tulin. Dark and beautifully layered, the Vanotu has aged nicely, even if the new oak influence is considerable. Dark cherry, licorice, tobacco and dark spices meld together in this super-expressive, richly textured Barbaresco from Giorgio Pelissero. The 2004 has really blossomed over the last few years. Score: 95. 2004 Giorgio Pelissero Barbaresco Riserva Vanotu: The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Vanotu is a commemorative bottling Giorgio Pelissero made to celebrate his estate’s 40th anniversary. Pelissero sourced fruit from the highest part of Vanotu in parcels his father first planted in 1964. As good as the Riserva is, four years in oak has played a significant role in shaping the wine’s feel and texture. Perhaps I caught the Riserva in an awkward stage, but today the fruit is a bit dried out and the oak tannins are dominant. Hints of rose petal, mint and sweet red stone fruits emerge over time, but only reluctantly. Score: 93+. Di seguito il link dell’articolo:VINOUS